Page 54 - HAND EMBROIDERY ARTISAN_TT

• Outlines are done first, then filled using tixxi or Gaadikond (Fig 2)
satin stitch. Fig 2
4 Symmetry & detailing
• High-quality Chinar designs ensure symmetry in
lobes and visible vein detailing.
Types of Chinar designs

Type Description
Single Chinar One large leaf, often placed near
shoulder or corner
Cluster Chinar 3–5 leaves connected by stems
Chinar Bel A vine made of flowing chinar
leaves and flowers
Jaal with Chinar Net-like all-over pattern “Gaadikond” is a traditional motif used in Kashmiri Sozni
incorporating Chinar embroidery, and it holds both aesthetic and symbolic
value. It is often confused or interchanged with similar-
Ukpan / Dupan/Trupan sounding motifs like Gaadikund, but Gaadikond has its
In Sozni embroidery, a single thread is used to create distinct shape, structure, and design placement.
the main design, while double threads can be used for Feature Description
reinforcing stitches or creating thicker lines or borders.
Term origin Likely a combination of “Gaadi”
Here’s a more detailed explanation: (structured/form) and “Kond” (pointed tip

• Single Thread (Ukpan): Sozni embroidery, known or crown) in local usage
for its fine and delicate work, often uses a single Shape A stylized floral or crown-like form with
continuous thread to create intricate designs on curved lines and pointed ends; may
pashmina shawls. resemble a lotus bud, flame, or teardrop
• Double Thread(Dupan): While less common in Structure Often symmetrical, pointed at the tip,
the overall Sozni technique, double threads can be and broader at the base – almost like a
employed for specific purposes, such as reinforcing floral crown or bud with a tapering top
stitches or creating thicker outlines or borders. Style More decorative and centrally focused,
Examples of double thread use used either solo or in symmetrical repeat
patterns
• Double stem stitch: This stitch, where a stem stitch
is done twice, can create thicker outlines or borders. Representation in Sozni Embroidery
• Double threaded backstitch: This stitch involves 1 Design characteristics
backstitching and then lacing a second thread through • Has a central pointed element, sometimes flanked
the stitches to create a chain-like pattern. by smaller petals
• Reinforcing stitches: Using two strands of thread • Embroidered with fine detailing
can provide extra strength and durability to certain
areas of the embroidery. • Often used in borders, palla (shawl ends), or
central medallion patterns
Sozni embroidery techniques
2 Stitch techniques used
• Aksi: A single-sided embroidery pattern where the
thread is split and only one side of the weft thread is Stitch Purpose
picked up, creating a reflection-like effect. Tixxi (close satin To fill the form and create smooth

• Dorukha: When the same technique as Aksi is done stitch) texture
on both sides of the fabric. Zanjeer (outline To sharply define edges and
stitch) pointed tips
• Kashmiri stitch: A skilled execution of a single
stitch, which may comprise the chain stitch, the satin Do-Rukha When used in luxury double-
stitch, the slanted darn stitch, the stem stitch, and the (double-sided sided shawls
herringbone stitch. stitch)
• Sozni design: Duffe Daar Kani Sozni: A regulated Chidkan Sometimes for filling small
pattern of flowers, leaves, and berries. interior areas
• 24 Poshal Kani Sozni: An example of closely
embroidered threads, leaving no space on the
pashmina cloth.
44 H & C: Hand Embroidery Artisan : (NSQF - 2024) R.T. Ex.No 1.7.38-43